How to travel Sri Lanka

A loop that takes you through ruins, hill country, tea and then the coast, in the order that makes the beach feel earned. Almost everyone travels it clockwise, and there is a good reason: you finish at sea level with nothing left to do.

Route
Clockwise loop from Colombo
Length
12 nights
Best months
Dec - Mar (West Coast) or Jul - Sep (East Coast) (20-28°C)

The route

  1. Sigiriya and Dambulla — 2 nights

    Climb Sigiriya at first light. The cave temples at Dambulla and the ruined city of Polonnaruwa are both within an easy drive.

    Onward: Road, 3 hr. South into the hills to Kandy

  2. Kandy — 2 nights

    The Temple of the Tooth at evening puja, and the botanical gardens at Peradeniya. A good place to slow down before the hill country.

    Onward: Train, 6–7 hr. The Kandy to Ella line. Book a reserved seat weeks ahead, sit on the right.

  3. Ella — 2 nights

    Little Adam’s Peak at sunrise, the Nine Arches Bridge, and a tea factory tour that is more interesting than it sounds.

    Onward: Road, 2 hr 30. Down out of the hills to the national park

  4. Udawalawe or Yala — 1 night

    Udawalawe for near-guaranteed elephants and far fewer jeeps; Yala if leopards are the reason you came.

    Onward: Road, 2 hr. South to the coast

  5. Mirissa and the south coast — 4 nights

    Beaches, whale watching between December and April, and the Dutch fort at Galle an hour along the coast.

    Onward: Expressway, 2 hr. Straight back to Colombo airport

If you have less time

On eight nights, drop the safari and one hill-country night. Do not drop the train.

If you have more

Add Anuradhapura before Sigiriya for the oldest ruins on the island, or Arugam Bay on the east coast between May and September.

The mistake to avoid

Reading distances off a map. Sri Lanka looks small and the hill roads are slow, winding and often behind a bus — a hundred kilometres can take four hours. Plan by driving time, never by distance, and do not schedule two long transfers back to back.

Read the full Sri Lanka travel guide or take the Sri Lanka packing list.