Turkey for First-Timers: A Ten-Day Route That Works
Istanbul, Cappadocia and the turquoise coast without rushing. What to book ahead, what to skip, and what everything actually costs.
The most common mistake first-time visitors make in Turkey is underestimating the size of the country. It is roughly twice the area of Germany, and the classic three-stop route of Istanbul, Cappadocia and the Mediterranean coast covers well over a thousand kilometres. The second most common mistake is trying to do it all by bus. Here is a ten-day route that works, built around cheap domestic flights.
Days 1 to 4: Istanbul
Stay in Sultanahmet for the first two nights so the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace are on your doorstep. Then move across the Golden Horn to Karakoy or Galata for the remaining nights, where the food is better and the city stops feeling like a monument. Take the ferry to Kadikoy on the Asian side at least once; it costs almost nothing and it is the best hour in the city.
Buy an Istanbulkart at any station on arrival. It covers trams, ferries, metro and buses at reduced fares and can be shared between two people.
Days 5 to 7: Cappadocia
Fly. Istanbul to Kayseri or Nevsehir takes about ninety minutes and costs less than you would expect; the overnight bus takes eleven hours and saves a hotel night at the cost of a day. Base yourself in Goreme, in a cave hotel if the budget allows, because they are not a gimmick and the rooms genuinely are carved into rock.
Allocate at least two mornings for the balloon flight. Flights are cancelled in high wind and it happens often enough that people who budget a single morning frequently leave without flying. Even if you do not fly, climb to a rooftop or a viewpoint at dawn: watching a hundred balloons inflate and lift out of the valleys is close to as good as being in one.
Fill the rest of the time with the Goreme Open Air Museum and its rock-cut Byzantine churches, a hike through the Red and Rose valleys in the afternoon light, and one of the underground cities at Kaymakli or Derinkuyu. The underground cities are genuinely tight and low in places, so skip them if you are claustrophobic.
Days 8 to 10: The Coast
Fly from Cappadocia to Antalya or Dalaman and pick up the Mediterranean. Kas is the most appealing base: a small town with a working harbour, good food and boat trips out to the sunken Lycian ruins at Kekova, where the remains of a city sit just below the waterline after an earthquake dropped them there.
If you have more time, this is also where the classic blue cruise runs, a multi-day trip on a wooden gulet along the coast between bays that are otherwise unreachable. Alternatively, swap the coast for Ephesus and Pamukkale on the Aegean side, flying into Izmir instead.
What to Book in Advance
- The e-visa, applied for online through the official government portal only
- Domestic flights, which are cheapest several weeks out
- Cappadocia cave hotels, which sell out in April to June and September to October
- Balloon flights, booked directly with an operator that publishes its safety record
- Nothing else - day tours and boat trips are easy to arrange locally and often cheaper
Money and Costs
The lira has been volatile for several years, which means guidebook prices and older blog posts are unreliable. Check current rates before you travel and pay by card where possible. The practical effect for foreign visitors is that Turkey remains very good value; a full meal with tea rarely costs what an equivalent would in Western Europe. Bargaining is expected in bazaars and nowhere else. Tip around ten percent in restaurants.
Practical Etiquette
Working mosques require modest dress: covered shoulders and knees for everyone, a headscarf for women, and shoes off at the door. Scarves are almost always available at the entrance. Avoid visiting during the five daily prayer times, and on Fridays around midday. Turkey is a secular republic with a Muslim majority, and these rules are relaxed but genuinely appreciated.
One More Thing
Pack layers even in summer. Cappadocia sits on a plateau above a thousand metres and the mornings, which is exactly when you will be outside for the balloons, are cold enough to be uncomfortable in the shorts that made sense on the coast two days earlier.